House Historian

Espionage and spies in Portman Square

admin London May 11, 2015Chestertons, espionage, F Section, House Histories, Ian Fleming, Imperial War Museum, James Bond, London, Marylebone, Maurice Buckmaster, Orchard Court, Portman Square, Second World War, SOE, Special Operations Executive, spies, VE Day, Vera Atkins, Victory in Europe, Winston Churchill 1 Comment

The recent commemorations celebrating the 70th anniversary of VE Day – Victory in Europe – on the 8th May have reminded me of one of my favourite house histories.

The efforts of everyone during the Second World War are worthy of celebration and honour – I don’t think many of us living in the 21st century can fully comprehend the sacrifices made by this incredible generation of men and women. But, it was while I was with Chestertons estate agents that I was researching the history of a mansion block in the middle of Marylebone in London and I uncovered an extraordinary story of its use by the Special Operations Executive during the war.

Orchard Court - Portman Square — Orchard Court – Portman Square

Orchard Court looks like many other mansion blocks you’ll see across London and when completed in 1930 it was very much like any other mansion block, but with the outbreak of the Second World War in 1939 it soon took on another role. In 1940, Winston Churchill created a new secret service to undertake operations in occupied Europe. Fighting undercover and working with the local resistance groups, the Special Operations Executive (SOE) played a pivotal role in the war effort.

It was in a flat in Orchard Court that the French section of the SOE were based. In an ordinary residential flat they established an office where they met potential new recruits, as well as met existing personnel. It was also here they met those who were soon to be parachuted into occupied France. “The time the agents spent at Orchard Court was a brief period of luxury before their gruelling, dangerous stints in the field.”

The French section (‘F’ Section) of the SOE was commanded by Maurice Buckmaster, assisted by Vera Atkins. Vera Atkins has been remembered as an extraordinary woman in her efforts and service to the agents within her care. She was the main point of contact for the F Section, including meeting new recruits at Orchard Court, as well as assisting in their final preparations before being sent into Nazi occupied France. She sent 470 agents into France, including 39 women, 118 of whom were never to return. The F Section was particularly noted for their acceptance of women as they were less conspicuous than men, but this was still highly unusual.

After the war, Vera Atkins also searched out the agents who had gone missing and went to every effort to uncover what had happened to them.

It is also believed that Vera Atkins may have been the inspiration for Ian Fleming’s Miss Moneypenny and Maurice Buckmaster his ‘M’ in the James Bond novels!

In recent years more of the stories of the agents of the SOE have come to light, although many did not speak of their experiences in their own lifetime.

It is extraordinary to imagine these highly-skilled agents walking in and out of this ‘ordinary’ looking mansion block in the middle of London with very few people having any idea of their involvement in the war effort or their experiences of espionage and resistance in occupied France.

There are a number of books and online sources on the history and stories of agents of the Special Operations Executive, but if you’d like to know more, perhaps start with a visit to – The Imperial War Museum

The Village that wouldn’t Die!

admin Oxfordshire April 27, 20151948, Alexander Pope, Arabella's Cottage, Berkshire, British Pathe, cottage, Cresscombe, Grand National, Jonathan Swift, Jude The Obscure, Letcombe Bassett, Oxfordshire, thatched, Thomas Hardy, timber-framed 16 Comments

It is perhaps a little difficult to believe, but this village in Oxfordshire, with known links to Thomas Hardy and Jonathan Swift, was due to be closed down in 1948 and the residents forced to move elsewhere. Letcombe Bassett is a small village, formerly in Berkshire, which throughout history has always been a small rural village. But, in 1948, in the tough financial years after the Second World War, the village was threatened with closure.

Berkshire council deemed it too expensive to provide mains sewerage for the village and decided it would be easier to close it down and relocate the residents. Of course, the villagers of Letcombe Bassett weren’t too happy about this and started a campaign to save their old village – and won!

Here is a fantastic (and short) film from British Pathé in 1948 telling the story of the villagers fighting for their little piece of England – a fascinating glimpse of village life:

Shall Letcombe Bassett Die?
http://www.britishpathe.com/video/shall-letcombe-bassett-die

I have recently been researching the history of one of the 17th century timber-framed thatched cottages in Letcombe Bassett, which turns out to be one of the most challenging house histories I’ve attempted. With very few retained documents it has been difficult to discover specific details of the history, and those documents that do survive mostly refer to each house as simply ‘dwelling house’ or only by the name of the resident with no address. However, it has certainly been an adventure!

Ordnance Survey map - 1891 — Ordnance Survey map – 1891

Despite these challenges it has been fascinating uncovering the story of the small village that refused to die. It was formerly famous for its production of watercress, transported as far as Covent Garden market where the cry of ‘Bassett Cress’ was well-known. The village has also long been associated with horse training with a number of prize-winning horses trained here, included several Grand National winners.

Letcombe Bassett also has several famous literary connections, with the writer Jonathan Swift staying at the rectory for a few months in 1714 and where he completed Free thoughts on the present state of affairs. It is also believed Alexander Pope visited him here during this time.

Cottage at Cresscombe_Jude the Obscure — Arabella’s Cottage

The author, Thomas Hardy, also used Letcombe Bassett as the inspiration for ‘Cresscombe’ in his novel, Jude The Obscure, and also used a small cottage in the village for ‘Arabella’s Cottage’.

Today, the village of Letcombe Bassett prides itself on its community spirit and the fight to save it over 65 years ago has only made it stronger.

Early London Omnibus – The Wilson’s Favorite!

admin London April 8, 2015Charles Dickens, City of London, George Shillibeer, Highbury, horse bus, Islington, John Wilson, London, London General Omnibus Company, omnibus, Wilson's Favorite 6 Comments

A short time ago I was researching the history of a house in Highbury, north London, and discovered an intriguing character in the house during the 1860s. In 1863, Mr John Wilson and his wife Mary moved to the house, but by this time Mr Wilson had retired and it was only through delving into his past did I uncover the story of a remarkable career. It turns out that Mr John Wilson was one of the first omnibus proprietors in London.

Along with his sister Elizabeth, John Wilson established a thriving omnibus or horse bus business transporting clerks and city workers to and from the City of London from the growing suburbs of north London. The origins of the omnibus company have been tricky to track down, but later records show that John and his sister Elizabeth established the ‘Wilson’s Omnibus’, often known as the ‘Wilson’s Favorite [sic]’ sometime during the 1830s. By the time of the 1841 census John was recorded as a ‘Coach Proprietor’ in Finsbury, Islington, and along with his sister, ‘Mrs Wilson of Holloway’, owned one of the largest omnibus companies in London.

A painting by James Pollard shows the Wilson’s Favorite at Islington Green in 1852. Held in the London Transport Museum collection – follow the link below to view.

‘Favorite omnibus at Islington Green’ by James Pollard, 1852

George Shillibeer's first omnibus 1829 — George Shillibeer’s first omnibus 1829

The first omnibus service in London was established in 1829 by George Shillibeer, running from Paddington along Marylebone Road to the City, but it wasn’t long before other entrepreneurs were taking up the opportunity of offering transport to fee-paying passengers. In the early years omnibuses – or horse buses – were named (unlike numbered buses that we have today) and the Wilson’s was known as the ‘Favorite’ or ‘Favourite’. By 1839 Elizabeth and John Wilson were recorded as having 11 horse buses.

This was an ideal time to be investing in this new type of enterprise as the building of new streets and houses was beginning to spread to the outskirts of London, with growth in the north to places like Islington and Highbury, which meant there were many city workers who required transport to work. Islington was an ideal location for a new bus route and the Wilson’s became known for their bus route from north London into the City.

The May Day start of Wilsons' Omnibus - The Favourite — Wilson’s Omnibus ‘The Favourite’ – The Pictorial Times, 1846

The Wilson’s Favorite became a popular and highly successful omnibus company. In 1853 John Garwood wrote in The Million-Peopled City that the Wilson’s ‘Favorite’ was ‘on the whole, as well regulated as, if not better than, any other which exists.’ The Wilson’s Omnibus even featured in Charles Dickens’ All the Year Round weekly journal, when in 1863 the writer told of how he would watch the ‘green favorites, boldly declaring the ownership of ‘Elizabeth and John Wilson’ – grand ‘buses, those, with drivers and conductors in green liveries, always renewed (with an accompaniment of nosegay for button-hole, and favours for whip, and rosettes for horses’ ears) on the occasion of the Queen’s birthday…’ In 1902, Henry Charles Moore states in his Omnibus and Cabs that ‘Mr Wilson was the largest proprietor in London, and his vehicles, which were known all over the Metropolis, had the reputation of being exceedingly well conducted.’

Another painting by James Pollard shows the Wilson’s Favorite in 1845. Held in the Museum of London collection – follow the link below to view.

‘A Street Scene with Two Omnibuses’ by James Pollard, 1845

In 1856 John and Elizabeth Wilson sold their omnibus company to the new and rapidly expanding ‘Compagnie Generale des Londres’ – renamed the London General Omnibus Company (LGOC) in 1858. The LGOC later became the biggest and most prominent omnibus company, buying up a number of local companies and spreading their presence across London. When the Wilson’s sold their firm they had over 50 horse buses, 500 horsed, and around 180 employees.

John Wilson died in the house in Highbury in 1866 leaving around £30,000 (well over £1 million in today’s money) to his wife Mary.

The man behind David Lloyd George in the House of Commons

admin London March 30, 2015Chestertons, David Lloyd George, Fulham Road, Hammersmith, Houses of Parliament, London, Mary Pickford, Member of Parliament, politics, Royal Academy, sculptor, Uli Nimptsch, Victorian, Winston Churchill 0 Comment

On a day when the launch of the electoral campaign for the 2015 elections is dominating the headlines I am reminded of a house I researched several years ago that has some unexpected links with UK politics. In the 1930s it was the home of an early female Member of Parliament and later in the 1960s it was the home of prominent sculptor, Uli Nimptsch, responsible for the statue of David Lloyd George in the House of Commons.

The Victorian house (researched for Chesterton Humberts – now Chestertons), situated along Fulham Road in London, was first built when the area was still predominately covered with fields and market gardens. It was completed in 1846 as part of a short terrace called ‘Lansdowne Villas’.

The first resident to move into the house was Mr George Ash – dentist. At the time of the 1851 census he was recorded in the house with his wife and five children.

I dread to think of the working life of Mr Ash as an early dentist – or more precisely the patients and their experiences with a Victorian dentist! Particularly when considering that anaesthetic wasn’t widely used and an official register of Dentists was only established by the Royal College of Surgeons in 1872.

Os map 1865_600dpi_crop_Fulham Rd_lores — Ordnance Survey map 1865 – Fulham Road

By the early 20th century the house was the home of Bessie Humphries, who was renting out rooms in the house. This continued through to the mid 20th century with Miss Laura Brown, who rented rooms to women, and in particular in 1930-31 the house is believed to have been the home of Mary Pickford. It appears unlikely to have been the Hollywood film star Mary Pickford, but rather Miss Mary A. Pickford the daughter of William Pickford, 1st Baron Sterndale.

Mary Pickford took an active role in community and political activities from a young age and during the war (interrupting her studies at Oxford University) she worked as a factory inspector for the Home Office. In 1929 she stood as a Conservative candidate for Farnworth but was unsuccessful, but was invested as a Commander, Order of the British Empire (CBE) later that year. Mary once again stood as a Conservative candidate, in the 1931 General Election, when it is believed she was living in the house along Fulham Road, and this time was successful, becoming MP for Hammersmith North. However, sadly Mary Pickford only held the position for three years as she died suddenly in 1934.

However, it was after the World War Two that the house became the home of it’s most famous resident, sculptor, Uli Nimptsch. Uli (full name Julius) was born in Germany and studied in Berlin, Rome, and Paris during the 1920s and 30s, but moved from Nazi Germany in 1939 for the sake of his Jewish wife, Ruth. Uli and his family settled in the house on Fulham Road in 1948 where he established himself as a noted sculptor, particularly famous for his female sculptures and portrait busts.

Uli Nimptsch working on the statue of David Lloyd George, 1962

It was in the 1960s that Uli received his most prominent commission – to create an over life size sculpture of former Prime Minister, David Lloyd George.

The statue was completed in 1963 and was unveiled in the Member’s Lobby on 18 December by the Prime Minister Sir Douglas-Home. It stands prominently at the entrance to the House of Commons opposite the statue of Sir Winston Churchill. Both statues famously feature a worn foot as it is the custom for MPs to rub the foot for good luck as they walk past.

Uli exhibited regularly, including a solo exhibition in London in 1942, and later was elected R.A. in 1967. He was also Master of Royal Academy Sculpture School in 1966-69 and today a number of his works are held in galleries across the country, including The Tate Collection. Uli Nimptsch continued to live in the house on Fulham Road until he passed away in 1977.

The statues of David Lloyd George and Winston Churchill in the Houses of Parliament.

From J.R.R. Tolkien to The Sweeney: A house in west London

admin London March 25, 2015Charlotte Mary Ann Tolkien, Dennis Waterman, George Blackmore, George Painter, House Histories, J.R.R. Tolkien, John Thaw, London, The Sweeney, The Times 0 Comment

A short time ago I was commissioned to research the history of a Victorian house situated in a quiet leafy street in west London. It was built in 1870 and first named ‘Edith Villa’ after the builder’s eldest daughter.

In 1876, the house became the home of Dr George Blackmore, who married Charlotte Mary Ann Tolkien, the cousin of the famous author of The Hobbit and The Lord of the Rings trilogy, J.R.R. Tolkien.

Dr George and Charlotte Blackmore continued in the house throughout the 1870s and 80s during which time they had six children. Sadly, Dr Blackmore died in 1891 when only he was only 40 years old.

By this time, the area had been completely developed with rows of Victorian terraced houses.

During the years of the First World War, the house became the home of a horse dealer, George Painter. However, along with being a horse dealer George was also recorded as a ‘general dealer’, which turns out included some illegal dealing.

Believed to be horse dealer - George Painter — Believed to be horse dealer – George Painter

It was reported in The Times in January 1920 that George Painter was caught ‘red-handed’ in purchasing gold sovereigns for the purposes other then currency. The Bow Street court report details the case when Mr Painter was literally left ‘holding the bag’ when the detectives entered the room where the deal was taking place.

The Times - 17 January 1920 — The Times – 17 January 1920

It was stated that he immediately responded ‘I know nothing…’, but when the contents of the bag were inspected it held 1,500 sovereigns, which he had just exchanged for ‘a large packet of currency notes’. After his arrest, Painter was taken back to his house where it was searched and more sovereigns were found. George Painter was found guilty and sentenced to six months in prison, but this was later reduced to a fine.

Much later in the history of the house, the drama turned to fictional drama, when it featured in the popular television programme, The Sweeney. Filmed in 1978, the house appeared in a street scene featuring the stars, John Thaw and Dennis Waterman, chasing a suspect from a nearby house.

The House Historian blog is back

admin Uncategorized March 24, 2015Berkshire, books, Hertfordshire, House Historian, House Histories, London, Royal Historical Society, Scotland, Somerset, South Kensington, University of Dundee, writing 2 Comments

Hello!! I know it has been a long time in the making, but yes, I’m back. After three years as an independent house historian, I’ve been itching to get back to the blogging. Since February 2012 I have been getting used to being my own boss, but also having the freedom to take on some varied and exciting house history projects.

A large part of my first year as a freelance house historian was taken up with completing my second book – Historic Streets and Squares – but since that time I’ve worked on several projects, including a complete history of a family estate in South Kensington in London, which is soon to be bound into a book, as well as house histories in Berkshire, Hertfordshire, Somerset, Scotland, and several in London.

I have also been regularly contributing to stories about the history of houses in national press and media; taking on speaking engagements; as well as tutoring a house history module for the University of Dundee; and in January 2015 I was accepted into the Royal Historical Society.

While all this continues in the background, I’ve been eager to get back into the blog writing – so here we are! This first post is a little introduction to get my feet wet, but watch this space for more blog posts about my adventures researching the history of houses and streets across the country!

Mel – The House Historian